What gasket goes where?

When you buy a gasket set for an engine, you always get a few pieces which you have no idea where they go.

This first happend with my Austin Healey Sprint. Now with my Nimbus.

Below is the response from Lars:

1: These 8 little o-rings go on the rocker arm shafts before you put on the paper gaskets. This is an invention of John (JC Nimbus) to counter overly generous tolerances    to the cam shaft housing's rocker arm holes. They were not part of the original gasket set. I will be adding these!

2: These strips are used on the outgoing side of the gear box and on the final gear. They are designed to tight up against the prop shaft. They sit inside where the prop shaft enters gear box and final drive.

3: On the new type gearbox (upside down Y-shaped clutch engagement arm), there is a recess where the end pin to the clutch engagement pin exit the gear case lid. It goes there.

4: Petrol tank gasket.

5: Gear-case oil return seal. Sits in the sump where the down going oil return channel meets up.

6: O-ring sits where the kick starter shaft exit the sump.

7: Gear-case oil feed line seal. Sits on the jet from the oil feed line that is routed through the engine that meets the gear case. Make SURE you do not have TWO seals there! If you do, you will crack your gear case housing during mounting!

8: Dynamo neck O-ring. Sits inside the holder with four nuts mounted around the dynamo on the under side of the cam shaft housing.

9: Oil sif (filter) seal. Sits around the strainer towards the back side of the plate that holds it in place in the sump.

10: Vacuum lead seal. The vacuum lead also serves as the oil filler cap and sits on the top side of the crank case, with an angular tube going up to the carburettor and a bell against the crank case. It sits on the underside of this aluminium bell.

11: Grease seal for the disengagement bearing. It sits inside the shaft where the clutch disengagement bearing is with the opening up towards the bearing, pressed all way down in the shaft. The cavity between the seal and the gear case lid should be filled up with grease of type Castrol APS-2. Be generous! This is the only lubricatoin this bearing might get. Observe! If you do not remove the old seal, you can not disengage the clutch since there will not be enough movement for the disengagement bar since the bearing will hit the top seal. I did that myself, and when it was found out that I had TWO seals in there, the guys at John gave me the unflattering name: Two-timing Lars.